My Research Journey as a Visiting Scholar at the University of Cape Coast (UCC)

Background of UCC

The University of Cape Coast (UCC) was established in 1962 to address Ghana’s urgent need for trained educators. From humble beginnings with just two departments, Arts & Science, it has grown into a prestigious academic institution, housing faculties & schools in Law, History, Social Sciences, Health, & more. According to its official website, UCC is now ranked as the leading university in Ghana & West Africa, & seventh across the African continent.

Situated in Cape Coast, in the heart of the Central Region, the campus is divided into old & new sites, each brimming with academic life & essential facilities. With over 70,000 students across undergraduate & postgraduate levels, UCC’s reach is expansive.

Cape Coast itself, just a few hours’ journey from Accra (depending on traffic, road conditions, & driver style), carries deep historical resonance. Once the capital of the Gold Coast, it is home to Cape Coast castle & neighbouring Elmina castle, UNESCO World Heritage Sites that bear witness to the transatlantic trafficking of enslaved African people. This layered history was what first drew me here, as it does for tens of thousands of visitors each year. While the region is predominantly Fante, both the city & the university welcome a diverse range of people from across Ghana & beyond.

April-Louise at one of the UCC university entrances. Photo credit: Emmanuella Duku

How I Found UCC: Following Ancestral Footprints

To be honest, I had known about Cape Coast castle, but the university itself had not crossed my radar. After returning from Jamaica & completing the second phase of my fieldwork, I began exploring Ghanaian institutions to host the final stage of my research. Through an act of serendipity & scholarly kinship, a colleague from Cardiff’s School of Modern Languages introduced me to the Dean of UCC’s Office of International Relations (OIR). And with that, the journey began.

I arrived with a sense of excitement, keen to immerse myself in the local area, to walk along the ocean on its vast beaches, to re-imagine the coastline in the 15th century in order to understand the present terrain, to feel whether ancestral knowing & emotions might rise to offer reconnection & insight. I was also following clear leads uncovered during year one in Wales & year two in Jamaica, both of which pointed firmly to Ghana.

The beach and the ocean at Cape Coast

From the very beginning, UCC offered me an academic home away from home. It was a perfect match. Its proximity to key research sites, its academic depth, & the welcoming spirit of its community made it ideal. I came in search of connection & understanding. What I received was more than I imagined, especially since I hadn’t even known about it properly beforehand.

The Warm Embrace of UCC: Hospitality in Action 

My stay was anchored by the OIR. They facilitated my visa, arranged on-campus accommodation, & ensured everything was in place before I arrived. They placed me with the Department of History & Diplomacy, which aligned beautifully with my research. From the outset, I was received with warmth & care.

In research, as in life, plans shift. The OIR’s professionalism & kindness gave structure to the unknown, transforming potential uncertainty into ease.

Life as a Visiting Scholar: From Newcomer to (sort of) Local

I was housed in a staff residence on campus, with my own room & bathroom, Wi-Fi, & air conditioning (most of the time). Its location, right beside the OIR offices, was both convenient & comforting.

An unexpected joy was my housemate: an academic from the US leading a study abroad programme. He became a trusted companion & guide, offering campus tours, food tips, laundry hacks, & meal service hookups. In him & his students, I found a small, supportive community that enriched my experience.

The Department of History & Diplomacy, led by the fabulously stylish & generous Dr. Martha Alibah, welcomed me warmly. She ensured I felt seen, valued & integrated by introducing me to key faculty members, assigning me a desk in a shared office (with said housemate), & pairing me with my brilliant research assistant, Ella.

At the archives with Ella

My days settled into a steady rhythm. After breakfast, I would catch a Bolt from my accommodation on the old site to the Faculty of Arts & Humanities on the new. The heat & the weight of my work bag made walking an ambitious fantasy. Mornings began with warm greetings from colleagues, followed by time at my desk responding to emails & other desk-based tasks. Then came a check-in with Ella to firm up our plans before we launched into interviews, site visits, & a flurry of research activities. By late afternoon, I would order my Bolt, head home to rest, reflect, & prepare for whatever the next day might hold.

Research Riches: The Perks of Being Present

UCC gave me more than office space, it grounded me. Within the department, I found mentorship, institutional insight, & camaraderie. No longer a solo researcher (or a one-woman-band as I call it) juggling every fieldwork task, I had a micro-team: myself & Ella.

The main Sam Jonah library was another resource, & Ella, serving her national service as a teaching assistant at the department, was an incredible asset. She helped me navigate logistics, interpret cultural cues & language, captured moments on camera & provided invaluable research support. Working with her transformed my fieldwork, offering a rare chance to manage a research assistant on my very own project which reshaped how I conducted fieldwork.

Ghana, Jamaica & the UK: Cultural Reflections

Being in Ghana offered echoes of my time in Jamaica, with a few distinctions. Workdays were tailored around the sun, often beginning around 6 or 7am, practical given the heat builds up by mid-morning. Offices were air-conditioned havens (mostly), a stark contrast to the heating dependency (that I have!) in the UK even during warmer months.

Titles carried visible weight & respect. “Dr. Pennant” rolled off tongues with intention, & even bathroom access reflected status, with a special staff-only toilet key at the department reception. The UK, while subtler in its hierarchies, still plays the same game, just with more polite ambiguity.

One quirk that followed me from Jamaica to Ghana was the elusive receipt culture. In the UK, receipts are sacred for expense claims. In Ghana, not so much. Luckily, anticipating this, I travelled with my own trusty receipt book for most purchases & found Bolt rides a happy compromise as digital receipts arrived via email & I could pay the drivers in cash.

In Ghana, much like in Jamaica, I could find my cultural cuisine & the ingredients in abundance & at a reasonable cost everywhere. Finding someone to do my hair was easy, & shopping for clothes felt refreshing because my body type was the standard rather than the exception. Even having clothes tailored in Ghana was simple, affordable & of good quality (& I was blessed with an amazing tailor recommendation). This has not been my experience in the UK, & certainly not in Cardiff, where I am based.

Across all three countries, I was given remarkable autonomy. Perhaps because I arrived with a clear mission & limited time, I was left to get on with my work. It was & is an academic freedom I treasure.

Standout Moments

Sharing My Research Journey: 

Early in my stay, I was invited to give a seminar hosted by the Department of History & Diplomacy. It offered a platform to introduce myself & my research, generating brilliant feedback, new leads & fresh perspectives. It was the spark that lit many future conversations in the department & beyond.

Presenting my research at the Dept, of History & Diplomacy seminar series. Photo credit: Emmanuella Duku

Finding My Book a New Home: 

One of my proudest moments was getting my recently published book, Babygirl, You’ve Got This!, housed in UCC’s main library. Unlike Jamaica, where I hadn’t brought copies with me, I came to Ghana prepared. Following all the necessary protocols, I gifted a copy to the university. I hope it finds its way into seminar rooms & lecture theatres, inspiring students in sociology, education & beyond!

Gifting my book to the Sam Jonah Library at UCC. Photo credit: Emmanuella Duku

Journey to the Northern Region: 

Thanks to my housemate’s programme, I joined a trip to Kumasi & the Northern region of Ghana, key locations which played a part in the history of the transatlantic trafficking of enslaved African people. It was both fortuitous & deeply moving to participate in this trip, surrounded by the curious young minds of his students, reflecting on Ghanaian cultures & histories.

Outside the Larabanga Mosque with my housemate & his students.

Lessons & Legacies: How Ghana Reshaped My Research

UCC offered me more than just a change of setting. In the Department of History & Diplomacy, conversations with colleagues challenged me to rethink disciplinary boundaries, the role of objectivity, & the positionality we bring to research. My interdisciplinary approach, rooted in history, memory, heritage & social science, found fertile ground for growth.

I realised I was only scratching the surface of Ghana’s role in the transatlantic trade & its enduring legacies. The experience grounded me in the lived realities shaping my work.

These gifts will shape what comes next. New partnerships, deeper questions, & future returns to Cape Coast & beyond are already taking form in my mind. I look forward to tracing fresh pathways through history, memory & place as this journey continues.

Looking Forward: Possibilities on the Horizon 

My time at UCC left me energised & curious. New ideas hum quietly in the background, & possibilities for future collaboration feel both exciting & within reach. The door is open. Let’s see what steps through next.

Gratitude in Abundance ✨

For the most part, my experience was easeful & empowering. I offer my heartfelt thanks to UCC’s Office of International Relations & Department of History & Diplomacy for their generosity & support.

Special gratitude to the Dean of OIR, Prof. Samuel Bert Boadi-Kusi; my colleagues at Cardiff, especially Prof. David Clarke whose introduction opened the door; Mrs Felicia Assibey-Ankrah & Dr. Martha Alibah for their stylish stewardship & welcoming spirits; Ella for her dedication, good humour & thoughtful insight each day; Prof John Hunter & his students, for unexpected community, shared meals & opening up new parts of Ghana for me to experience; and everyone else who supported me with warmth and grace.

Thanks to the Leverhulme Trust & Cardiff University.

& as always, endless thanks to my family & my ancestors- your support lights my way.